adeasketchoftheturnout。ItisnotaWork,itisonlywhatartistscalla“study”—athingtomakeafinishedicturefrom。Thissketchhasseveralblemishesinit;forinstance,thewagonisnottravelingasfastasthehorseis。Thisiswrong。Again,theersontryingtogetoutofthewayistoosmall,heisoutofersective,aswesay。Thetwouerlinesarenotthehorse’sback,theyarethereins;thereseemstobeawheelmissing—thiswouldbecorrectedinafinishedWork,ofcourse。Thatthingflyingoutbehindisnotaflag,itisacurtain。Thatotherthinguthereisthesun,butIdidn’tgetenoughdistanceonit。Idonotremember,now,whatthatthingisthatisinfrontofthemanwhoisrunning,butIthinkitisahaystackorawoman。ThisstudywasexhibitedintheParisSalonof1879,butdidnottakeanymedal;theydonotgivemedalsforstudies。
Wedischargedthecarriageatthebridge。Theriverwasfulloflogs—long,slender,barklessinelogs—andweleanedontherailsofthebridge,andwatchedthemenutthemtogetherintorafts。TheseraftswereofashaeandconstructiontosuitthecrookednessandextremenarrownessoftheNeckar。Theywerefromfiftytoonehundredyardslong,andtheygraduallytaeredfromanine-logbreadthattheirsterns,toathree-logbreadthattheirbow-ends。Themainartofthesteeringisdoneatthebow,withaole;thethree-logbreadththerefurnishesroomforonlythesteersman,fortheselittlelogsarenotlargeraroundthatanaverageyounglady’swaist。Theconnectionsoftheseveralsectionsoftheraftareslackandliant,sothattheraftmaybereadilybentintoanysortofcurverequiredbytheshaeoftheriver。
TheNeckarisinmanylacessonarrowthataersoncanthrowadogacrossit,ifhehasone;whenitisalsosharlycurvedinsuchlaces,theraftsmanhastodosomerettynicesnugilotingtomaketheturns。Theriverisnotalwaysallowedtosreadoveritswholebed—whichisasmuchasthirty,andsometimesfortyyardswide—butisslitintothreeequalbodiesofwater,bystonedikeswhichthrowthemainvolume,deth,andcurrentintothecentralone。Inlowwatertheseneatnarrow-edgeddikesrojectfourorfiveinchesabovethesurface,likethecombofasubmergedroof,butinhighwatertheyareoverflowed。AhatfulofrainmakeshighwaterintheNeckar,andabasketfulroducesanoverflow。
TherearedikesabreasttheSchlossHotel,andthecurrentisviolentlyswiftatthatoint。Iusedtositforhoursinmyglasscage,watchingthelong,narrowraftsslialongthroughthecentralchannel,grazingtheright-bankdikeandaimingcarefullyforthemiddlearchofthestonebridgebelow;Iwatchedtheminthisway,andlostallthistimehoingtoseeoneofthemhitthebridge-ierandwreckitselfsometimeorother,butwasalwaysdisaointed。Onewassmashedthereonemorning,butIhadjuststeedintomyroomamomenttolightaie,soIlostit。
WhileIwaslookingdownuontheraftsthatmorninginHeilbronn,thedaredevilsiritofadventurecamesuddenlyuonme,andIsaidtomycomrades:
“IamgoingtoHeidelbergonaraft。Willyouventurewithme?”
Theirfacesaledalittle,buttheyassentedwithasgoodagraceastheycould。Harriswantedtocablehismother—thoughtithisdutytodothat,ashewasallshehadinthisworld—so,whileheattendedtothis,Iwentdowntothelongestandfinestraftandhailedthecatainwithahearty“Ahoy,shimate!”whichutusuonleasanttermsatonce,andweentereduonbusiness。IsaidwewereonaedestriantourtoHeidelberg,andwouldliketotakeassagewithhim。IsaidthisartlythroughyoungZ,whosokeGermanverywell,andartlythroughMr。Xwhosokeiteculiarly。IcanunderstandGermanaswellasthemaniacthatinventedit,butItalkitbestthroughaninterreter。
Thecatainhitcheduhistrousers,thenshiftedhisquidthoughtfully。PresentlyhesaidjustwhatIwasexectinghewouldsay—thathehadnolicensetocarryassengers,andthereforewasafraidthelawwouldbeafterhimincasethemattergotnoisedaboutoranyaccidenthaened。SoIcharteredtheraftandthecrewandtookalltheresonsibilitiesonmyself。
Witharattlingsongthestarboardwatchbenttotheirworkandhovethecableshort,thengottheanchorhome,andourbarkmovedoffwithastatelystride,andsoonwasbowlingalongatabouttwoknotsanhour。
Ourartyweregrouedamidshis。Atfirstthetalkwasalittlegloomy,andranmainlyuontheshortnessoflife,theuncertaintyofit,theerilswhichbesetit,andtheneedandwisdomofbeingalwaysrearedfortheworst;thisshadedoffintolow-voicedreferencestothedangersofthedee,andkindredmatters;butasthegrayeastbegantoreddenandthemysterioussolemnityandsilenceofthedawntogivelacetothejoy-songsofthebirds,thetalktookacheeriertone,andoursiritsbegantorisesteadily。
Germany,inthesummer,istheerfectionofthebeautiful,butnobodyhasunderstood,andrealized,andenjoyedtheutmostossibilitiesofthissoftandeacefulbeautyunlesshehasvoyageddowntheNeckaronaraft。Themotionofaraftistheneedfulmotion;itisgentle,andgliding,andsmooth,andnoiseless;itcalmsdownallfeverishactivities,itsoothestosleeallnervoushurryandimatience;underitsrestfulinfluenceallthetroublesandvexationsandsorrowsthatharassthemindvanishaway,andexistencebecomesadream,acharm,adeeandtranquilecstasy。Howitcontrastswithhotandersiringedestrianism,anddustyanddeafeningrailroadrush,andtediousjoltingbehindtiredhorsesoverblindingwhiteroads!